Inserting Buttonhole Elastic into Waistbands

By Kathy Grondin

When you’re losing weight, it’s important to look and feel good about your progress. The “I have nothing to wear!” cry can be even worse when clothing no longer fits because of weight loss. That really is a good thing, but can be very frustrating. Wearing clothes that are too big can dull some of the happiness of your weight loss progress.

You may not be ready to sew up that new wardrobe if your weight loss is still in progress, but you can extend the life of too-big pants and skirts by adding buttonhole elastic, making them look better on your new body.

You will need:

skirt or pants with a waistband 2 x 3/8” or 1/2” (9 or 13 mm) sew-through buttons (not the kind with a shank); any color will do buttonhole elastic (see resources below) thread to match your garment

**Please note that this technique can be built into a new garment or used on existing garments. Other uses include children's clothing and maternity clothing.

When including buttonhole elastic in a newly constructed garment:

1. Measure the width of the waistband pattern piece. Subtract seam allowances and divide in two. This is the finished width. You may need to adjust this width if it is going to be too narrow to accommodate the elastic. Standard buttonhole elastic is 3/4” (2 cm) wide, so the waistband should be at least 2" (5 cm) plus the seam allowances.
2. If fabric availability is at a premium, it is possible to get extra width from the second seam allowance as this is often cut down, serge finished or folded under anyway.
3. Cut out the waistband.
4. Do not use interfacing on the waistband.
5. On the facing side of the waistband (inside of the garment), measure from the center front or center back about 3 – 3 1/2” (7.75 to 9 cm). Mark.

6. Place a piece of tear-away type stabilizer under the marking. Stitch buttonholes at the mark. Buttonholes are vertical and centered within the facing portion of the band.
7. Remove stabilizer.



8. Open buttonholes.
9. Finish the raw edge (long facing side) of waistband with a serger or overedge type stitch or turn under and press. Remember if you need to make any allowances for width.
10. Apply waistband to garment and finish the ends following pattern instructions. DO NOT complete the final stitching of the band yet.
11. Sew buttons about 1/2” (1.25 cm) away from the buttonholes, toward the CF or CB sewing through the facing side only.



12. Stitch facing side of waistband in place. I like the “stitch in the ditch by machine” method myself. If the raw edge has been serged, this makes for a nice flat waistband. You may need to use a zipper foot to get around the button.



13. Cut a piece of buttonhole elastic the length of the waistband from buttonhole to buttonhole plus 2” (5 cm).
14. Fold over the raw edge of the elastic on both ends and stitch.
15. Using a bodkin or large safety pin, thread the elastic through the buttonhole. Anchor the ends of the elastic on the buttons.



16. As your waistline shrinks, pull up the elastic, making equal adjustments to both sides.

To add to a finished garment (sewn or ready to wear):

1. Measure back from the garment's opening (center front or center back) 3 to 3 1/2” (7.75 to 9 cm) on each side and mark. Open up the bottom edge of the waistband for about two inches (5 cm) on either side of this mark. Place a small piece of stabilizer behind the mark.
2. Set your sewing machine for making buttonholes. Make a buttonhole 3/4” (2 cm) long at your mark. The buttonhole will be vertical.
3. Repeat for the other side of the garment. Remove the stabilizer and open the buttonhole.
4. Sew a 3/8” to 1/2” (9 to 13 mm) button on the waistband (sew only through the facing side of the band). The button should be placed about 1/2” (1.25 cm) away from the buttonhole and be towards the garment opening.
5. Stitch the waistband back in place.
6. Cut a piece of buttonhole elastic the length of the waistband from buttonhole to buttonhole plus 2” (5 cm).
7. Fold over the raw edge of the elastic on both ends and stitch.
8. Using a bodkin or large safety pin, thread the elastic through the buttonhole. Anchor the ends of the elastic on the buttons.
9. As your waistline shrinks, pull up the elastic to the next hole, making equal adjustments to both sides.

Enjoy wearing your clothing a bit longer. This application can be added to children's clothing and maternity wear too.

When you are ready to have patterns made to your new figure, simply contact Client services at 1-800-543-4739 to update your measurements or watch for us on the road to get your measurements updated with our mobile body scanner. Also contact us for pricing on measurement updates and patterns.

Resources:

Check your local fabric stores. This elastic could be also marketed as children's or maternity adjustable elastic.