Sewing with Fleece

Fleece is an easy to sew fabric for all skill levels. It is available in many weights, so it is easily adaptable to most climates. It is warm, wind resistant, perfect for apparel, craft projects, lap throws, and accessories such as scarves and hats. Fleece is available in many colors, prints and textures including fuzzy, embroidered and embossed styles. However, be warned that if you buy more than you can sew up, it takes up a lot of storage room (ask me how I know!).

Pattern selection

Choose patterns that recommend fleece, have fewer details and are not closely fitted. Fleece does have some stretch to it, but check the stretch of the fleece before selecting a pattern that has minimal ease and requires a stretch knit such as a jersey.

A Kathy Ruddy Design

Although this pattern lists fur, it works nicely in fleece type fabrics.

The mock neck, facing, and dropped shoulder features work well with fleece.

This pattern is a little closer fitting with 3” (7.8 cm) of ease at the bust and hip. Although the fabric recommendations are for Melton, silk and tweed, I sewed this up in a soft, textured fleece and had great results. See the details of this jacket by clicking here.

This loose-fitting turtleneck will be fast and easy to work up. The ribbing in the cuffs and waist can be replaced with a simple hem with twin topstitching.

With your project cut out, now is the perfect time to Fabric Fit. Many patterns listed here have a lot of ease - up to 8” (20.3 cm) at the bust and/or hip. That may be too much fabric on a smaller framed person or you may prefer less ease than the pattern is drafted with. Fabric fitting is the solution. Click here to review this topic

Notions

• Insert a new needle in the machine. Use the appropriate size for the weight of the fleece. Remember the smaller the needle size, the thinner the fabric. For most “everyday” fleece I prefer a size 90/14. Universal point needles work well as do the stretch-type needles.
• Use longer pins that have a ball or bead type head. These pins will show up better in the fleece.

Seams

Fleece does not ravel; however, a traditional 5/8” (15mm) seam may look bulky if left as is. Try these alternatives:

1. Stitch 5/8” (15 mm) seam, press to one side, trim under seam allowance and stitch the un-trimmed allowance in place.
2. Stitch 5/8” (15 mm) – trim to 3/8” (9 mm); finger-press open; top stitch either side. Gives a sporty look.
3. Sew on the serger (4 or 5 thread stitch) - fast and easy; seams are trimmed and neat. You can still top stitch if desired.

Use a stitch length of 3.0. It can be a little challenging to rip out seams; sew carefully the first time.

Pressing

Fleece can melt easily and makes your iron dirty very quickly.

• Use a low setting on the iron and use a press cloth to protect both your fleece and your iron.
• Whenever possible, finger press seams open or to one side. If you are top stitching seams, the stitching will hold the fleece in place.

Stay warm and cozy this winter in your new fleece garments!