Interfacing 101
Believe it or not, some sewers view interfacing as an extra when they are sewing and consider it a step that they can skip over because it is not important. Nothing could be further from the truth! Interfacing is a necessity for proper shaping and support in detailed areas of a garment. You will find it in collars, cuffs, waistbands, lapels, neckline and pretty much all opening edges where additional stability and support are necessary. In this month's tip I am going to guide you through the basics of choosing, cutting marking and applying interfacing successfully.
If you look at the interfacings available on the market today, it can be quite mind boggling. There are two basic types of interfacings: sew-ins and fusibles (meaning fused with an iron) both are available in woven, knitted and non-woven versions and each type is available in weights that vary from sheerweight to heavyweight AND then you have a choice of black or white and sometimes nude colored interfacing (we will talk more about this later).
As a sewing instructor, I always encouraged my students to wait until after we did the class on interfacing to choose the interfacing for their garment because invariably if they went before the class they choose the wrong type – there are just so many options out there.
The first thing to remember is the Rule of Thumb when choosing interfacing is to always choose a weight that is slightly lighter than the fabric you are using. This applies for both Sew-in and Fusible Interfacing.
Whether you choose between Sew-in and Fusible is really a matter of personal choice and will also depend on the fabric you are using. I know sewers who are wary of using Fusible Interfacings however, today's Fusible Interfacings are really easy to use, provided you follow the successful steps to application as discussed below.
In general, Sew-In Interfacing provides a softer finish for the garment while Fusible Interfacing provides a slightly crisper result and because Fusibles set the yarns they are also an excellent choice for fabrics that have a tendency to fray. However, there are fabrics that do not react well to fusible interfacing. They basically include anything that cannot withstand pressing with a hot iron for a long period of time and would include fabrics such as velvet and velveteen, metallic, seersucker, crinkled fabrics, faux furs, leather, vinyl and lace. I remember the first time I learned this lesson – I made a beautiful outfit out of turquoise crinkled cotton and while applying the fusible interfacing to the garment front, I ended up pressing the crinkle right out of it!
When deciding on whether to use Black or White interfacing, I would recommend that you have both on hand. Then if you are working with dark fabrics, you would use the black interfacing and if your fabric is light in color, then use the white. Sometimes using white interfacing on dark fabrics can cause the area to have a grayed out effect where the interfacing has been applied (I think we have all seen that at one point or another on Ready to Wear garments.)
Finally, if you are using a woven interfacing you may want to preshrink it by placing the interfacing in a bowl of hot water and let it sit for 15-20 minutes. Remove the interfacing and roll in a towel to remove the water. Allow to air dry. I also know other Sewers who preshrink all interfacing – the choice is yours.
Cutting and Marking
When laying out interfacing to cut out the pattern pieces, remember to lay it out like you would fabric. Woven and knit interfacing have lengthwise, crosswise and bias grain. The interfacing pieces should be cut out following the same grain as the pattern piece. Technically speaking, non-woven interfacing does not have a grain, however, that does not mean that you can lay out pattern pieces any old way you please. Most of the non-woven interfacings are stable in all directions yet others stretch in a crosswise direction and still others stretch in every direction. The safest way to lay out a non-woven interfacing is the same as with Woven and Knit as if it has a lengthwise & crosswise grain.
It is a good idea to take the paper insert from the interfacing when you purchase. This usually provides instructions and recommendations on how to place pattern pieces.
When you are marking your fabric after cutting your patterns pieces, keep in mind that those pieces that require interfacing need not be marked. It is more accurate to fuse or apply the interfacing to the fabric piece, then mark the interfacing.
Application
Sew-in interfacing: To reduce bulk at the corners, diagonally trim the corners just inside the point where the seam-line will be and machine baste the interfacing to the wrong side of garment piece using a 1/2" seam allowance. Depending on the weight of the fabric and the interfacing, you may want to trim the interfacing at that point or wait until you grade the seam allowance.
Fusible interfacing: Once you have chosen the correct fusible interfacing for your garment, proper fusing is essential. Read the manufacturer's instructions if they are available. If they are not available, you can use the instructions below.
There are three essential ingredients needed to apply interfacing properly:
TIP: A proper functioning iron is a necessity to applying interfacing properly. Make sure your iron is working properly and steaming well, if it is not you can supplement the steam aspect by spraying water on the interfacing with a spray bottle before you press it.
1. Preheat iron to Wool/Steam setting.
NOTE: Irons may vary in heating power, so double check on a scrap how the heat affects your fabric – you don't want to ruin your good fabric when you touch your iron to it for the first time! (Ask me how I figured this one out!!)
2. Press the fashion fabric to remove any wrinkles and to allow for any shrinkage caused by steam. Heating up the fabric also makes it more receptive to the bonding agents of the interfacing too.
3. Place the resin side of the interfacing on the wrong side of the fashion fabric. I suggest using a press cloth to cover the interfacing to prevent fusible residue from getting on your iron. Some Fusible Interfacings directions also require a damp press cloth. (I personally use a press cloth for those days that I have a mind lapse and end up fusing my interfacing to the press cloth!)
PLEASE NOTE: In the next few instructions, we will use the term Press. There is definitely a difference in Pressing and Ironing a piece of fabric - Pressing is when you actually pick up the iron and move it to the next spot until you have pressed the entire area of the interfacing Ironing is when you slide the soleplate of the iron along the fabric – and this does not work for interfacing! If you Iron the interfacing in place, chances are you will have ripples in the bonded fabric. The Ironing motion actually stretches the fabric as the soleplate moves along so that when it cools, it will leave ripples and bubbles in the bonded fabric. Most sewers that this happens to blame the interfacing but in actual fact, it is the sewer behind the iron that caused it. In short – DO NOT SLIDE THE IRON!
4. "Steam Baste" the interfacing first – to initially hold it in place. This means press lightly lifting the iron up and down from the center to the outside edges for 1 second in each spot to keep the interfacing from slipping while fusing.
5. Now you are ready to "Fuse" the interfacing to the fashion fabric. Fuse a minimum of 10-15 seconds without sliding the iron. The heavier the fabric, the more seconds you will have to fuse. Try the Mississippi trick to count seconds – one Mississippi, two Mississippi, three Mississippi, etc.
6. Use FIRM two handed pressure, overlapping pressed areas to ensure complete fusing.
7. Finally, BE PATIENT! Always allow the fused pieces to cool before picking them up and moving them. Moving the pieces while still hot can also cause them to ripple and bubble since the fabric while still hot is prone to stretch. The glues as they cool become permanent so they will adhere to the fabric better.
Unique Patterns carries its own brand of Fusible Interfacing and we just love it! It is a Fusible Weft Insertion Interfacing that is a combination of knitted and woven interfacing. Threads are woven through the knitted interfacing to stabilize it. This gives you the benefit of the drape of a knit and the stability of a woven. It works on all kinds of fabrics, giving it a lofty feel and control without stiffness and it is not prone to blistering. Our Weft Fusible Interfacing is 100% polyester and 60" wide which means it is cost effective and allows for a more optimum layout and goes a long, long way versus the more common and narrower interfacing!
Unique Patterns has the Weft Fusible Interfacing available in the following packages:
1 1/2 yd Package – Available in Black or White
3 yd Package – Available in Black or White