If you think all needles look alike once you’ve taken them out of the package you are not alone. Most sewers would like to "sharpen up" on some sewing machine needle facts. Here are some “pointers” to guide you in what needle to use for each project you sew along with some tips to help you along the way.

1. First of all, what size should I use? The European sizing system for sewing machine needles is numbered from 60 to 120, based on the diameter of the needle in fractions of a millimeter, with 60 being the finest and 120 being heavy-duty. Similarly, the American system is numbered from 8 to 21 again with 8 being the finest and 21 being heavy-duty. A good rule of thumb is to match the needle size to the thickness and density of the fabric you are sewing (i.e. the thinner and softer the fabric, the smaller the needle size can be). The thread you are sewing also influences needle size (the finer, smoother and more uniform the thread, the smaller the needle size can be.)

2. Does it matter what type I use? The type of needle identifies what fabric it is meant to be used with. The following are the most commonly used needles and their applications:

A) Universal needles have a slightly rounded-off sharp point suitable for many types of fabrics; universals are considered general purpose needles, so it’s smart to keep an assortment of sizes on hand. The larger sizes are also used for topstitching.

B) Sharps are used to pierce heavyweight, densely woven fabric such as canvas and denim or fabrics with a heavy finish. They resist deflection because they have acute rounded points, stiff shafts, and slender eyes. They are also good for topstitching on these fabrics because they have a sharp point for penetrating the threads.

C) Ballpoint needles are used for sewing on knits; the rounded tip allows the needle to pass between threads instead of breaking them.

D) Leather needles have a special wedge shaped point which cuts through leather and twists the thread slightly so the leather doesn’t drag on the needle and cause skipped stitches. They are not recommended for synthetic suede’s.

E) Topstitching /Embroidery/Metafil needles are designed to use with decorative thread because they have larger eyes to accommodate either thicker thread, such as topstitching thread or finer thread such as rayon or metallic thread, without skipping stitches or stripping thread causing breakage.

F) Twin needles, or double needles, are used for decorative sewing, topstitching, and pin tucks. Two needles are mounted on a single shank. Sizes range from 80/12 to 90/14 in widths 1.8 mm to 4.0 mm (This number indicates the distance between the two needle points). There are also available specialty twin needles such as a stretch twin to use with knits and embroidery twin to use with decorative threads.

G) Triple needles are designed for decorative straight stitching with fine thread, but are not for use on heavy fabrics or multiple layers. Three needles are mounted close together on the same shank.

H) Wing needles are designed for decorative hemstitching. They push thread apart, creating a hole in crisp fabrics such as linen. The shafts are like two wings projecting from either side of the eye. Double-wing needles are used for decorative sewing or for machine heirloom sewing. Two needles are mounted on the same shank; the standard needle makes a small hole and the wing needle does hemstitching. They are available in size 100/16 only.

Finally, as past sewing machine dealer and technician, I can categorically say that about 70% of sewers issues with their machines are needle related. If you have a stitch that you are not pleased with – change your needle first! You will surprise yourself at how much better it looks!