By Kathy Grondin
Spring is a time for change and growth. Expand the use of your favorite Unique patterns by changing the seam technique or seam finish used.
Create a look perfect for those breezy spring and summer days with Simplicity 4881S2. View S2 is perfect for those sheer, light weight fabrics. A contrasting underskirt doubles as a slip. Finish the bottom with a rolled hem for a beautiful look as the hem floats in the breeze. Or use Simplicity 4881S1 with traditional French seams (See tip "How to sew a French Seam")for the how to's or try this serger French seam, especially good for fabrics that ravel excessively.
Serger French Seam
Set the serger for a narrow three thread overlock. Use a balanced tension and run a test sample to determine the stitch width. Place wrong sides together and serge a 1/4" (6 mm) seam. Press as sewn and then press seam allowance to one side. Pin right sides together, encasing the serged edge. At the sewing machine, stitch a 3/8" (9 mm) seam, removing the pins as you sew. Press.
Top Stitched Seam
Use the same pattern and change up the look by using a light to medium weight fabric that is a little sportier. (Use a fabric that is not as 'dressy'.) My sample is a lightweight silk noil. Topstitching the skirt seams will add a sportier feel to this design. Here are some seams to try:
| With your sewing machine, sew a plain seam as usual. Finish the raw edges with a serger or pinking shears and press seam open. From the right side, topstitch on each side of the seam. A presser foot with a guide will be particularly helpful in maintaining straight topstitching. I like the Edge/Joining foot by Husqvarna Viking. This foot has a guide in the center, but with an oval opening so then I can move my needle to the left or right of the center. Check with your local sewing machine retailer for a similar foot for your machine. |  |
Sew a plain seam. Press both seams to one side; finish both seams together. From the right side, stitch the seam allowances down. Try altering the distance of the topstitching from the seam for the look you like.
Hints:
- Use a slightly longer stitch length of 3.0 - 4.0. Test sew for the look you like.
- Use a heavier weight thread or a decorative thread in the top. There are many brands and types available. I like the Sulky Blendables thread available in 12 wt. and 30 wt. Be sure to change your needle to a 90/14 size or larger needle for this step. A sharp needle, topstitching needle or jeans needle are all good choices.
A variety of Klasse® needles are available to order through our notions section on the website or call Member Services at 1-800-543-4739.
Serger Option
Many overlocks/sergers today have a cover stitch feature. This stitch allows you to sew in the middle of a project without cutting any fabric. The top side of a cover stitch looks like two rows of parallel topstitching. The thread in the needles is what shows. The underside of the stitch has a loop effect and comes from the chainstitch looper thread. Either side of the stitch can be used as the "right" side; it is your preference. To set your serger for a cover stitch, please refer to the owner's manual.
| To use the cover stitch for topstitching, sew a plain seam and press to one side. Trim seam to 1/4" (6 mm). Set up your serger for a wide cover stitch and with the right side of the skirt facing up, stitch over the seam with the cover stitch. The bottom side of the cover stitch will conceal any raw edges. Or serge the seams with a four thread overlock (use 5/8" (1.5 cm) seam allowance). Press seams to one side. Change your serger to a wide cover stitch and topstitch seams in place. This look is often used in knitwear. |
 |
Option: Use the back side of the cover stitch (chainstitch looper side) as the top stitch.
Copy Cat Option or "As Seen in Ready to Wear"
I recently came across a ready-to-wear item in the mall that caught my attention - it was a gored skirt with the seams pressed open to the right side, finished with a decorative serger stitch and with contrasting colored lace godet inserts at the hem line.
To duplicate this look:
Use Simplicity 4365 S0 or S1 - I used 4365S1.
Select a fabric that looks or almost looks the same on the right and the wrong side. Choose an accent color from the skirt fabric and purchase lace or other sheer fabric to cut the godet pieces from. You may also want a solid color fabric to underline the godet pieces.
Cut skirt pieces from main fabric and cut godet pieces from lace and underlining fabric (if desired).
Use a decorative thread - I like YLI's Wooly Nylon® serger thread in a contrasting color in the looper(s) and matching thread in the needle.
Set serger for 2- or 3-thread rolled hem or use a 2- or 3-thread overlock stitch. Experiment with the stitch length, cutting width, tension and differential feed to get a smooth stitch that doesn't pull or draw. Lower the needle thread tension to reduce puckers.
Finish the vertical seams of the skirt sections with the serger. Make sure the wrong side of the fabric is facing up when you serge. Cut off only the whiskers of the raw edge.
| Hint: Make a test sample and measure the amount of fabric you are using in the edge finish as you will need to allow for this during construction of the skirt. Serge the top and long edges of the godet pieces with the same serger stitch, but this time have the right side of the fabric up. Thread the serger tails at the point to the underside and use a dot of seam sealant at the tip. Set godets aside. |
 |
Hint: If you are using an underlining fabric with the lace, simply treat both layers as one. To make handling the layers easier, use a small amount of temporary basting spray such as Sulky's KK2000™ or Dritz 505® temporary fabric adhesive to hold the layers secure while serging.
Follow the pattern instructions to insert the godet pieces and seam the skirt except:
- Sew wrong sides together, press seam open above godet and flat below.
- Sew with a 1/2" (12 mm) seam allowance* (I used 1/8" (3 mm) of the seam allowance in the serger stitch step)
*the width of the seam allowance will vary with the serger finish used. The total seam allowance must equal 5/8" (12 mm) (1/8" for serged edge + 1/2" seam (12 mm + 3 mm)) for the skirt to fit as intended. Remember that you are working with 12 or 16 seams and even a difference of 1/16" (1.5 mm) (+ or -) could result in a 2" (5 cm) change in size. - Use a centered zipper application at the center back seam instead of a lapped zipper in the side seam with the seams facing out. For instructions on Moving a Zipper to a New Location, see our March 2006 tip.
- Apply waist stay as per pattern instructions (move opening to center back as with the zipper).
- Finish the skirt hem with a rolled edge.
|
|
 |
| Enjoy this breezy look now and all summer long! |  |