By Kathy Grondin We are more than ready to give up the bulky winter jackets, but still need to ward off that little chill or breeze in the air. A new jacket will add a little spring boost to your wardrobe. Add distinction to your jacket by using bound buttonholes. There are several methods of making a bound buttonhole. The method outlined here is a little easier for many sewers. The decision to use bound buttonholes must be made at the beginning of the sewing process. Always make a test buttonhole with the same fabrics and interfacing that you will be using for the jacket. This will allow you to check the size of the buttonhole for your selected button. |
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Apply interfacing to the entire jacket front. This adds a professional touch to the garment.
Hint: for a professional look, use our weft insertion interfacing and fuse the entire front and back pieces of the jacket. This adds body and structure to the jacket.
Mark the Position of the Buttonholes
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On the right jacket front, parallel to the center front, draw a vertical line using chalk or washable marker connecting the starting point for your buttonholes. Draw a line parallel to this line; the spacing between these two vertical lines will be the length of the buttonholes. Baste each buttonhole line between the vertical lines. Planning note: remember that a fusible interfacing will glue baste the stitches in place.
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The Buttonhole Facing
If the fashion fabric for the garment is not too bulky, use it for the buttonhole facing also. For bulky fabrics, choose a lighter weight fabric that matches closely in color for the facing or sheer organza. Cut the buttonhole facing about 2" x 3" (5 cm x 7.8 cm).
On the wrong side of the patch, draw a rectangle the length of the buttonhole, with a width of no more than 1/2" (1.25 cm). For lighter, thinner fabrics, the width of the buttonhole will be 3/8" (0.9 cm). Draw a line down the center of the rectangle.
On the right side of the garment, position the buttonhole facing over the buttonhole marking and pin in place. Make sure that all lines match up and are straight. Set your machine for a short straight stitch - 1.5 length - and sew around the box. Start the stitching in the middle of one long edge. Pivot at each corner and overlap the stitches where you began. Do not back stitch as this adds unwanted bulk.
Press the buttonhole facing to meld the stitches into the fabric.
Cut the buttonhole open down the center stopping about 1/4" (0.6 cm) from each end. Clip into each corner with small sharp scissors. It is very important to clip to the stitching, but not through the stitching. Not clipping close enough to the corner will result in a lump or bubble at the corner of the buttonhole. Cutting into the stitching will cause weakness and fraying of the buttonhole.
At the Iron
For a professional-looking buttonhole, spend some time at the iron. Be sure to use a press cloth on fabrics that may shine or mark.
From the right side, press the buttonhole facing toward the center of the buttonhole on both the long and short sides. This creates an edge for the buttonhole facing to turn easily.
Pull the buttonhole facing through to the wrong side.
Gently press the buttonhole facing on all sides. The buttonhole facing should be rolled to the inside and there should be no bubbles or tucks at the corners. If there are, the corners have not been clipped deeply enough. Turn the buttonhole facing back and clip a bit more. Press and check the corners again.
Create the "Legs" or "Lips" of the Buttonhole
Cut two pieces of fabric (2 per buttonhole) 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" (3.8 cm x 6.3 cm). Using a fabric marker or chalk, draw a straight line in the center lengthwise on the wrong side of one piece. Set your machine to a long straight stitch and with the two pieces right sides together, baste along the line. Do not back stitch.
Bring wrong sides of each fabric together and press.
Center the legs behind the faced buttonhole. Make sure the basted line is in the center of the rectangle. Pin in place.
With the right side of garment up, fold back the garment to expose the triangle and the legs. Use a zipper foot and set your machine to a short stitch length: 1.5 - 2.0. Stitch across the triangle to secure it to the legs. Hint: Stitch just to the outside (toward the point of the triangle) of the stitching from the facing. DO NOT stitch inside the buttonhole facing stitching as this will result in a bubble in your buttonhole.
Repeat for the other triangle.
Check for smoothness from the right side. Press gently. Repeat for the long sides of the buttonhole.
From the right side, stitch in the ditch around the rectangle. If you have a foot with a flange in the middle such as an Edge Joining Foot, it will make stitching easier!
Continue the construction of the garment. Once the front facings are sewn to the jacket, the buttonholes can be finished.
Finishing the Jacket Facing
Create buttonhole facings in the jacket facing:
- Mark the position of the buttonholes on the jacket facing pieces.
- Repeat the buttonhole facing step at these markings.
- Pin the jacket facing to the jacket front at the buttonholes and hand stitch around the buttonhole facings.
Enjoy wearing your new garment as we spring into summer!