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Eliminating a Zipper

By Beverly Chapman

A large number of our pant patterns have center back zippers. This allows the pants to have a smooth front, so that the Unique blouse or jacket is not hindered by any extra bulk underneath. However, a number of our Members have asked for tips on alternate openings for these pants. The last Tip of the Month showed how to move a center back zipper to a side seam. This month’s tip will show you how to eliminate the zipper altogether!

If you are going to eliminate the zipper, but you’d still like to be able to get your pants on and off, you will have to make an opening somewhere else. An alternate style uses a side seam pocket to conceal the opening. This method works with pants with side seam pockets and a waistband. Choose a pattern that already has these features.

This method requires the waistband of the pant to be longer than the waistband piece supplied with the pattern. Add 10” (25 cm) to one end of the waistband (don’t worry, we’ll cut off the excess at the end), cut out the waistband, and interface as normal. There’s no need to mark any notches or centers (front or back).

Construct the pants according to the instructions up to sewing the crotch seam. If your pattern originally had a center back zipper, sew the crotch seam completely shut, to the waist of the pant. The side seams should not be sewn together at this point.

You will have cut out four pocket pieces. Two of these will make one pocket. On each of these pieces, make a mark approximately 7” (17.75 cm) down from the waist edge of the pocket on the side that will NOT attach to the side pant seam. This mark will be just above the bottom curve of the pocket. Clean finish this edge of each pocket with a 5/8” (1.5 cm) hem. These two pocket sections will form the opening on the left side of the pant.

Attach the four pocket pieces to the pant side seams, as per your instructions, being sure that the pieces with the clean-finished edges are on the left side seam of the pants.

The right side seam is sewn as normal (i.e. from bottom up to pocket circle, around the pocket). (Diagram 1.)

When sewing up the left side seam, sew up the seam and around the pocket to the dot you previously marked. Sew off the side of the clean–finished edge. (Diagram 2.)

Clip the back seam allowance of the pants below the pocket. Press side seam allowances open. Press the front part of pocket to inside toward the front of the pants, folding the front 1/4” (6 mm) from seam. (This will roll the pocket seam to the inside so it can’t be seen.) Baste in place. (Diagram 3.)

At this point it’s a good idea to fabric fit your pants. Make any changes now before the waistband goes on. (See our article on fabric fitting.)

Press under 5/8” (1.5 cm) on one long edge of waistband. Trim pressed–under edge to 3/8” (1 cm).

With right sides together, pin waistband to pants and back part of left pocket, right sides together, extending the waistband 5/8” (1.5 cm) past the opening. Match the waistband to the rest of the pant waist. At the front pocket mark a 5/8” (1.5 cm) extension and cut off any excess. Baste. Stitch. (Diagram 4.)

Trim and grade the waist seam allowances. Press seam allowances toward waistband. Fold waistband on fold line, right sides together. Stitch ends. Trim seam allowances. (Diagram 5.) Turn right side out. Hand–sew pressed-under edge over waistline seam. Press.

Sew hooks and eyes on waistband. As an alternative you can sew two buttonholes and buttons instead. (Diagram 6.) Enjoy your Unique pants with no zipper at all!