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How to Sew a French Seam



Member Joyce Ford of Beaumont, TX suggests:

When sewing sheer fabric, like a blouse or lightweight duster that is see-through, take a little more time and bind the raw edges or use a french seem. It will make your item look very professional and will eliminate raw edges or serged edges from showing. It is worth the extra time it takes. Nothing looks worse than a blouse made from sheer fabric where the raw edges can be seen through the fabric!


TO SEW A FRENCH SEAM

Step 1 Picture Step 2 Picture
Step 1: With WRONG sides of the fabric together, stitch a 1/4” (6 mm) seam allowance. Step 2: Trim the allowance to 1/8 “ (3 mm).

Step 3: Meld the thread into the fabric to set the stitches: just press one side of the garment along the line of stitching as you’ve sewn it and then flip it over and press the other side along the stitching. This pressing secures the thread into the fabric. Now press both seam allowances to one side. Step 4: Turn the fabric so that RIGHT sides are now together. I like to roll the fabric between my fingers to position the seam from step 1 on the top of the new seam allowance, as I am pressing. Pin the right sides together along the stitching line.

Step 4 Picture Final Stitch
Step 5: Stitch a 3/8” (9 mm) seam allowance. When you remove your pins, you will see that this stitching line has completely enclosed the raw edges of the fabric. You have used no more seam allowance than usual: first 2/8” (6 mm) and then 3/8” (9 mm). Step 6: Press well.

NOTE: If you prefer a smaller seam, especially on shear fabrics, first stitch a 3/8” (9 mm) seam and trim it to 1/8” (3 mm). Then use a 1/4” (6 mm) seam for the final finished allowance.


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